Geneva is buzzing once again as the biggest names in watchmaking gather for Watches & Wonders. It’s where tradition meets bold innovation, and where technical brilliance gets dressed up in jaw-dropping artistry. From boundary-pushing mechanics to dazzling high jewellery timepieces, this year’s showcase reminds us why haute horlogerie still has the power to surprise and seduce.
Here are the standout releases we can’t stop thinking about:
Chanel
Chanel turns up the chroma, playing with contrasts, colour, and couture codes.
To mark its 25th anniversary, Chanel’s iconic J12 returns in a striking matte blue makeover. Crafted from high-resistance Bleu ceramic, the anniversary collection showcases the maison’s enduring pursuit of material innovation. Nine limited-edition models—ranging from 28 mm to 42 mm—make up the lineup, with most powered by automatic movements. Notable exceptions include the dainty 28 mm J12 Bleu with a high-precision quartz movement, and two manually wound standouts: the radiant J12 Diamond Bleu Tourbillon and the ultra-modern J12 Bleu X-RAY.
The Blush Watch Capsule Collection, a vibrant homage to Chanel Beauty, infuses lively pops of colour against sleek black finishes. Drawing inspiration from the bold palette curated by the house’s Makeup Creative Studio, the collection brings fresh energy to the J12 and Boy.Friend models. The J12 is embellished with subtle hints of pink and red, while the Boy.Friend watches playfully reimagine Gabrielle Chanel through a pop-art lens.
Meanwhile, the Première Galon features a twisted bangle bracelet nodding to the braid that edges Chanel jackets. For Gabrielle Chanel’s fellow Leos, the Lion collection roars with sculptural timepieces in gold, gemstones, and mother-of-pearl—astrological elegance in full power mode.
Bvlgari
Celebrating 25 years of boundary-pushing watchmaking, Bvlgari makes a bold entrance at Watches & Wonders 2025 with two radically distinct statements: the razor-thin Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon and the sculptural Serpenti Aeterna.
The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is a marvel of modern micro-engineering—just 1.85mm thick, encased in microbead-frosted titanium, and powered by the manual-wind BVF 900 calibre. Anchored by a tungsten carbide main plate and operated by dual planar crowns, it’s a razor-thin ode to architectural defiance, down to its barely-there 1.5mm titanium bracelet.
In contrast, the Serpenti Aeterna leans into sensual minimalism. Shedding the snake’s traditional scales and eyes, this new interpretation coils like a golden whisper—engraved with Bvlgari’s signature hexagonal motif and lit with diamonds. An invisible mechanism powers its quiet seduction.
Piaget
Piaget plunges into its archives, resurrecting vintage magic with modern flair.
The new Sixtie—a trapezoidal watch inspired by the radicalism of the ’60s and ’70s—channels the maison’s most audacious design era. Softly geometric and confidently feminine, it radiates retro-cool allure.
Once known as the 15102 and favoured by Andy Warhol himself, the Andy Warhol Watch is reborn in bold iterations—from a lightning-blue opal dial surrounded by sapphires to a warm tiger’s eye version. With 10 stone dial options, various hands, and strap choices, it’s endlessly customisable and joyously irreverent.
Other novelties include the Rainbow Aura, a revamped Piaget Polo 79 in white gold, and kinetic Swinging Sautoir watches—which was also spotted on Korean actress Jun Ji-hyun when she made an appearance at the Piaget booth during the fair)—are each a nod to Piaget’s playful, high-art spirit.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
The maison of precision strikes again—literally—with Reverso tributes that merge complication and craft.
The Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater, limited to 30 pieces, houses the new Calibre 953 and features dual faces: guilloché barley grain under teal-blue enamel on the front, a skeletonised acoustic marvel on the reverse. Every element—crystal gongs to lacquered bridges—chimes with sonic sophistication.
The Reverso Tribute Geographic—the first world-time function in the Tribute series—displays dual time zones via an engraved city ring and rotating disc. Available in steel or limited-edition pink gold, it nods to the 1958 Memovox World Time.
The Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Shahnameh’ features four miniature masterpieces inspired by Persian miniatures and Shah Tahmasp’s 16th-century manuscript, executed in grand feu enamel and paillonnage by the Métiers Rares atelier.
Two pink gold Reverso One ‘Precious Flowers’—Green Arums and Purple Arums—radiate floral femininity, while the Reverso One ‘Precious Colours’ transforms its case into a full enamelled Art Deco canvas, demanding up to 15 firings and years of enamel artistry.
A. Lange & Söhne
German virtuosity remains alive and well at A. Lange & Söhne, who present three novelties that balance gravitas and grace.
The Minute Repeater Perpetual leads the charge, combining two of horology’s most revered complications. Powered by a new manually wound movement, it harmonises the lyrical chimes of a repeater with the astronomical logic of a perpetual calendar.
The new 1815 channels classical codes with contemporary spirit, while the Odysseus returns in a luxurious new iteration—crafted in proprietary 750 Honey Gold (HONEYGOLD®), shimmering with warmth and depth.
Tag Heuer
Tag Heuer makes a turbocharged appearance at Geneva to mark their return as official timekeeper of Formula 1, bringing adrenaline, innovation, and nostalgia.
The Tag Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph injects new energy into the iconic collection, powered by a solar-charged movement and built with TH-Polylight for maximum durability. Its re-engineered 38mm case and bidirectional bezel are ready for race and street alike.
The Carrera Day-Date and Carrera Date Twin-Time return with elevated precision, each powered by the in-house TH31 movement with 80-hour power reserve and quick-change bracelets. The Carrera Day-Date comes in five confident new references, while the Twin-Time brings jet-set charisma with a bold teal dial.
In a nostalgic flourish, the Beads-of-Rice bracelet is revived for the modern Carrera Chronograph, with sleek finishing and refined articulation. Tag Heuer’s global Designed to Win campaign, inspired by Ayrton Senna’s immortal words, captures the brand’s relentless drive.
Laurent Ferrier
Laurent Ferrier is adding the Classic Auto to its permanent collection — and it’s arriving in icy blue. First introduced as a limited Série Atelier for Geneva Watch Days 2024, the new Classic Auto Horizon trades the Sandstone’s copper dial for a lacquered sky-blue gradient, inspired by open skies and shifting light.
Its name nods to the LF 270.01 caliber, a micro-rotor movement originally seen in the Sport Auto. Now housed in a 40mm Galet-shaped stainless steel case, the Classic Auto bridges Ferrier’s sportier edge with his signature vintage refinement. The softly contoured case draws from 19th-century pocket watches, made modern.
This story first appeared on GRAZIA Singapore.
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