Among the many in-demand watches in Rolex’s current catalogue, the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II is undoubtedly one of the most sought-after models. Its predecessor, the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master, is a tool watch that was launched in the 1950s and made for navigating between journey time points. It was originally intended for a select group who frequently travelled across different time zones—airline pilots, ship captains, businessmen and members of the Armed Forces, who needed to know the time in two time zones at a glance.
These days, of course, its function has a far more widespread application and appeal. Its emblematic design seems virtually unchanged since the start, yet the GMT-Master has continuously evolved to embrace modernity. It has seamlessly integrated the successive technical advances that have cemented its status as the GMT watch of choice, always in step with its times.
The Latest GMT-Master II Releases
For 2024, Rolex has unveiled two new Oystersteel versions of the GMT-Master II, adding more appealing options to the line of watches. One of them is fitted with an Oyster bracelet, while the other comes with a Jubilee bracelet.
The GMT-Master II, of course, is instantly recognisable by its bidirectional rotatable bezel with a 24-hour graduated Cerachrom bezel insert, which has been produced in various dual-colour combinations over the years.
The new variants come with a bezel insert in grey and black ceramic—introduced last year—which features a graduated effect made clearly visible via a platinum coating that’s applied via PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition). The high-tech ceramic, known as Cerachrom, is yet another notable Rolex innovation—not only is the material highly durable, corrosion-proof and virtually scratch-proof, it also produces colours of a high intensity.
These watches are powered by the calibre 3285, a movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex that was released in 2018 and introduced on the model in the same year. This movement has a power reserve of approximately 70 hours and features Rolex’s patented Chronergy escapement, which combines high energy efficiency and dependability to provide the best possible mechanical performance.
A Remarkable History
The GMT-Master was launched in 1955, a time when the world saw major change and advancements in civil aviation and long-haul travel. With more and more people crossing continents on a more frequent basis, there was a distinct need for GMT watches, which allowed the wearer to read the time in two time zones in one glance.
The year 1959 marked two significant developments for the GMT-Master. Firstly, it became the official watch of Pan American World Airways, better known as Pan Am, the most prominent American intercontinental airline at the time. Pan Am pilots were equipped with GMT-Master watches, and also appeared in advertisements for Rolex, helping to make the model an emblem of the aeronautical world.
At the same time, Rolex also gave the model several key upgrades. The 24-hour graduated bezel insert, previously made of Plexiglas, was now produced in anodised aluminium, to make its surface more durable, while a winding crown guard was added as an integral part of the middle case.
The GMT-Master II came along in 1982—it had a new movement that allowed the hour hand to be adjusted independently of the minute hand and 24-hour hand. At its launch, it featured a burgundy and black bezel insert, a combination that’s exclusive to this new model. The GMT-Master and the GMT-Master II co-existed until 2000, when the former was phased out.
Rolex continued to enhance the GMT-Master II with updates in the following years, and introduced two significant upgrades—one in 2005, in which a ceramic bezel insert was used on the model (the first of its kind on a Rolex watch); and another in 2008, when the proprietary Cerachrom was used in replacement of the original material for the bezel insert.
A Meeting Of Icons
While the GMT-Master is an icon in its own right, its popularity is undeniably in part due to many prominent figures from various professional fields who made the watch a part of their personal style and life over the years. The timepiece has even accompanied some of these remarkable individuals as they went through history-making moments in their career.
They include leading supersonic pilot Brian Trubshaw, who wore the GMT-Master while operating the historic maiden flights of the Concorde supersonic airliner; and Scott Crossfield, who was involved in the X-15 programme and also the first man to reach Mach 2. The watch is also a favourite of NASA astronauts—Jack Swigert was one among other astronauts who took their personal GMT-Master with them to space.
The GMT-Master is also famously seen on the wrists of many film and television legends. These are but a few of them who have worn the watch on screen: Marlon Brando, as a renegade US Army colonel in Apocalypse Now, Clint Eastwood, who played the role of a fighter pilot in Firefox, and Val Kilmer, who also was a fighter pilot in Top Gun.
It is also the timepiece of choice for many Rolex Testimonees and sports personalities, as they travel across the world. They include three-time F1 champion Sir Jackie Stewart, golf legend Tiger Woods, tennis icon Roger Federer, and former world No. 1 in women’s tennis, Garbine Muguruza.
This article was first published on GRAZIA Singapore.
READ MORE
Here’s Why the Rolex Watch Dial Is an Element Beyond Telling Time
Rolex Oceans Moment: A Deep Dive into Conservation
The Most Dazzling Jewellery Moments From The Venice International Film Festival