A lot was going on at Balenciaga’s Fall/Winter 2024 show in Paris. Quite literally. With screens towering over the runways, flashing scenes of natural beauty that were digitally altered in real-time, edited beyond recognition and merged and displaced until they were something else entirely. And yet, despite tapping into our magpie attention spans, it was the clothes that guests couldn’t look away from.
In a voice note shared to guests and press, the creative director shares some insight into his inspirations, mostly rooted in questions of why he does what he does—why any of us do what we do, in fashion. Not in a nihilistic way, but Demna found himself thinking back to a time when luxury meant scarcity. And what does he believe is more scarce than ever? Creativity.
Well, there was no shortage of that here. Inspired by many of the innovations dreamt up by Cristóbal Balenciaga that have made up his enduring legacy, Demna paid immense attention to detail. ‘Hip-aulette’ constructions with shoulder pads sewn into the sides of hips to emphasise a uniquely Balenciaga shape, draped dresses now frozen, tops made of upturned trousers as a nod to the house’s La Vareuse designs, and even abstract interpretations of the ‘Bubble’ dress.
Though the past and future come together in Fall/Winter 2024, make no mistake of the undeniable Demna flair. This season, his lived-in aesthetics continue in maxi faux fur coats treated with resin for an aged effect, raw-cut hems, and washed fabrications. Upcycling was also prolific throughout the show, with dust bags, backpacks and gym bags remade into tops, skirts and dresses. Of course, there was plenty for Hollywood to snap up, too, in the form of strapless sequined gowns and opulent velvet confections.
Looking back at his work over the last decade since he established Vetements, the Georgian designer reflected on what has brought him joy in his personal life and career. Perhaps that’s why some of his favourite final looks were inspired by a game he often plays with his studio, the ‘One-Minute’ challenge, where the team must Frankenstein a look together using whatever materials they have in sixty seconds. The result was minis made up of bikini tops, tape and odd bits of garments. Oh, and a closing gown made entirely of lingerie.
“This collection is about the aesthetic that I have been evolving in fashion for exactly ten years now,” he said. “It is about identifying with and belonging to this aesthetic. It is also about the fashion that matters to me.”
If creativity is the ultimate luxury, Balenciaga paves this refreshing distinction.
This story first appeared on GRAZIA International.