For Fall/Winter 2025, Max Mara debuted a masterclass in restraint and romance with a collection that spoke to the complexities of female desire and passion. Much like the themes of Robert Eggers’ Nosferatu, creative director Ian Griffiths tapped into the interplay of self-control and yearning. Inspired by the brooding, untamed landscapes and tempestuous love stories of the Brontë sisters‘ work, the show balanced structure with sentiment and functionality with feeling.
A cinched waist, elongated legs, and sweeping hems defined the key silhouette on the runway. 18th-century style redingotes—tailored yet dramatic—were revived with detachable quilted linings and shearling sleeves, effortlessly blending old-world charm with modern utilitarianism. Meanwhile, military-inspired outerwear, frock coats, and sumptuous parkas took center stage, their bold proportions offset by softer knits.
Max Mara’s signature fabric expertise was also on full display. The brand-exclusive shade of Cascia—a nuanced neutral tone that harkened back to Brontëan settings—anchored the collection, while rich tweeds woven in bracken, moss, and berry red brought a touch of rugged romance. Lush double-face wool, featherweight worsteds, and cashmere brought softness to sharper, structured pieces. Knitwear, too, leaned into Victorian influences, with mouliné yarns sculpted into bodices reminiscent of corsetry—merging the beauty of the past with modern needs for comfort and versatility.
On the eveningwear front, Max Mara embraced the drama and mystery of the gothic heroine. Coal-black velvet gowns with thematic grandeur and boned bodices gave way to a haunting intensity, proving that even the most disciplined woman cannot forever resist the call of passion.
With the Brontës’ work enduring through time—the newest Wuthering Heights adaptation by Emerald Fennell will premiere next year—Max Mara explores the dichotomy of the head and the heart with a season dedicated to the woman who dares to appease both.
This story first appeared in GRAZIA International.
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