FROM FROCK TO FOOD
The big word for today’s businesses is creating experiences that strike a chord with the consumers in this ultra-competitive landscape. Experiences—often misunderstood as services—offer more than just fungible goods and hospitality. It’s also about engaging with the consumer’s five senses on an emotional, intellectual, physical or even spiritual level. “Eatertainment” or “entertailing” (a portmanteau of ‘eating’ and ‘entertainment’ or ‘entertainment’ and ‘retailing’) is on the surge, luxury players are looking for an answer that responds to the demand. For luxury players, their bread and butter are no longer intricately designed dresses and fancy leather bags named after an actress. The people want more now. We want all of the above while we sip on coffee served in paper cups imprinted with a logo or a palm-sized sharing plate smeared with brand initials in chocolate ganache. Reaping what they sow, doyens like Armani, Prada, and Bvlgari were ahead of their times, spearheading and later anchoring themselves in the then-uncharted waters as early as the 20th century.
Aside from the stratospherically high price tags, both fashion and culinary experiences have too many similarities—from flawless services to top-notch quality goods. It was only a matter of time before fashion brands got their hands greasy. Gucci, for example, has always been huge in creating and inviting patrons for a sensorial plunge into its cosmos. Recruiting the renowned Italian maestro Massimo Bottura for Gucci Osteria was an on-brand move, as the chef—who has a three Michelin-star restaurant—and the brand are the epitome of Italian precision and impeccable artisanship. On the other hand, Ralph Lauren with its Polo Bar just off New York’s Fifth Avenue captures the essence of the American culinary scene. Everything in the restaurant, from the assortment of bar bites to the dimly lit space filled with leather booth seats and equestrian decor down to the well-dressed maître d, the Polo Bar is a portal to the Ralph Lauren realm.
For centuries, eating at a restaurant has been a societal event—and food is the window to most cultures. From a marketing perspective, investing in gastronomy is one way to visualise the ideas and values of a brand, whether through the tableware, restaurant decor, the oh-so-delicate dishes, or the height of the chef’s toque blanche. It’s also a way to retain the customer longer while shopping (or window shopping), allowing them more chances to immerse themselves in the universe of the brand. As retail strategies evolve, immersive experiences have been highlighted in the business playbook. Dining in a fashion-brand-armed restaurant is taking part in the gastronomical equivalent of fashion week—fueled by pictures and reviews on social media. A restaurant could also be an indicator for brands to understand their market and clientele, especially with the burgeoning demand from East and Southeast Asia in the luxury sphere. Hot on the heels of Gaggan at Louis Vuitton at LV The Place in Bangkok and the first Coach restaurant in Jakarta—both of which opened their doors earlier this year—proves that dining experiences are podiums to translate the brand’s values with not just consumables but also inimitable experiences—exclusivity and authenticity at its best form.
A table spread of food, however, is not the only way brands manoeuvre this market. The idea of tightening your belt to save the dough is so passé. Instead of investing in an heirloom-worthy handbag, younger consumers are looking for little treats that are comparably affordable to fulfil their daily luxury needs. Enter pop-ups and cafes—or in the marketing term, the “socks appeal”. Brands like Saint
Laurent, Dior, and Ralph Lauren are at the tip of the spear in specialty coffee, in a bid to attract younger consumers. When Prada took over a wet market in Shanghai in 2021, consumers flocked to the once unassuming spot that was masked behind a gigantic Prada logo in pink—not for designer bags but for vegetables wrapped with papers that read “Feels like Prada”. Creating a space and medium like a cafe that puts forth the brand identity via everyday items and visually compelling designs invites higher footfall, which is reflected in higher brand visibility—on and off social media. It also broadens the exposure across a myriad of potential consumers that vary in not just tastes but also budgets.
KITCHEN À LA MODE
The culinary scene is quick to spot new cultural waves and extended dining experiences beyond the table. A well-rounded culinary experience involves art, culture, taste, and of course, fashion. The demand goes both ways, as more fashion houses are sourcing talents from other sectors, welcoming food artists like Laila Gohar (who later launched the tableware line Gohar’s World with her sister Nadia) with open arms to create sensory experiences that delight as many senses as possible. Gohar’s unique approach to artful tablescape gained her partnerships with brands ranging from heritage name Hermès to cult-favourite, Simone Rocha. Presenting food as a piece of art, Gohar has successfully hosted dinners—or even created a gift set with beauty brand Byredo—it’s proven that food (or in Gohar’s World’s case, tableware as well) is merely a medium—very much like clothes—for a fashion brand or even a food creator to paint an (extended) story, expressing their creative voices and ideally visualising a brand identity.
These pop-up collaborations are never one-off. They are entry points for both luxury brands and their culinary counterparts—be it artists like Gohar or food creative studios like We Are Ona and Balbosté dabble, and eventually invest in this new business format. We Are Ona, for example, comprises a team of chefs hand-picked from reputable restaurants and Michelin-starred establishments who share a similar vision: where the experience is the new status symbol in the gastronomic world. The Paris-based studio now has an expansive list of clients, from setting up Simon Jacquemus’ wedding to hosting artful pop-ups at major art events like Art Basel and Frieze Los Angeles. With an equally illustrious work under its belt, the Balbosté—a production culinary house as labelled under the official social media account—is a long-term partner of Loewe, a brand that shares a similar quirky creative vein. Like Loewe, Balbosté dismantled the conventional way of how food is perceived, with much taste. Aside from what’s on
the plate, the team also teamed up with artists like Laurette Broll Ceramic for a cross-disciplinary experience in a recent collaboration with Loewe. Positioning themselves as an artist instead of a chef, the food experts have more leeway to connect people with food, not just in taste, but also as sensorial provoking as a piece of art.
The love for food is universal and the appeal of luxury too, is very much sought after. To top that, the yearning for tangible and emotional connections is high, especially in this digitally-inclined era. As the Internet says, Gen Zs are breaking the marketing funnel. The backbone of successful marketing is allowing the audience to see more than just the products; the community, the values, the relevancy and the identity matter as much, and in some circumstances, even more. These examples are undeniably a shot in the arm for brands to invest in creating an experience—not just with tangible commodities like clothes or food, but more so upon storytelling.
This story first appeared on GRAZIA Malaysia September 2024 issue.