Emporio Armani Sailing Deep Waters For Fall/Winter 2024

If the lighthouse set and backing track of Loredana Berte’s “Il Mare D’inverno”, which translates to Winter Sea, weren’t a giveaway of where Mr Armani’s mind was at with his Emporio Armani Fall Winter 2024 collection at Milan Fashion Week the first looks that came down the runway locked it in.

Creatively interpreting classic sailor motifs, he incorporated sailor-style collars into a variety of garments, including blousons, shirts, and sweaters. Additionally, the collection featured elegant greatcoats reminiscent of naval officers, waterproof raincoats, and denim outfits designed for the roles of cabin boys and engineers. Only the barest hint of the obvious Breton stripe was visible. In its place were higher collars, wool and chambray in dark navy and black leather slickers that brought to mind the sensual styling of Fassbinder’s cinematic masterpiece, Querelle. 

Later, glittering detail across the lapels of blazers and evening wear replicated the collective sparkle of stars in the night sky, the sailor’s traditional compass from days past and embellishments sprawled like seabed coral.

In a quote provided to outlets after the show, Armani reflected on his life-long of the sea and what it represents: freedom, adventure. These feelings, he stated, were what he wanted to express throughout this collection.

But this was only part of the story. The other took place on the slopes with white skiwear and outerwear and of course, the brand’s signature tailoring. The latter was specifically referential, with its extra wide padded shoulders on trenchcoats, suits and biker-esque jackets complete with cropped waists. On the bottom, shorts were cut loose and low while and voluminous pants were tied at the ankle with cords.

This story first appeared on GRAZIA International.