European and American fashion have long been thought of in polarity. But as Maria Grazia Chiuri looked back at the Maison’s rich history to inspire the Dior Pre-Fall 2024 collection, she found it in the long-held connection they’ve held at the house.
Christian Dior famously set up shop in the States not long after establishing himself in Paris. The ateliers operated differently to accommodate the divergent American lifestyle, offering a more sportswear-oriented range that reflected the liberal sensibilities of the West. But it is undeniable that Parisian DNA struck a chord with notable figures, and thus the worlds became respectively influenced.
Take the eternal style muse Marlene Dietrich, who featured prominently in teasers shared by the Maison. The German-American actress, known for her femme fatale look, was a force in Hollywood and beyond. A pioneering icon with her progressive ideals, she often subverted dressing conventions by favouring styles of the early 1900s and menswear, demonstrating a duality in fashion that few else had.
Following on from its nostalgic Fall/Winter 2024 show at Paris Fashion Week earlier this year, Dior’s Pre-Fall 2024 runway show was hosted at the Brooklyn Museum in Prospect Park, New York. According to an official statement, the presentation is inspired by “the founding couturier’s passion for the fascinating American metropolis.”
In the leadup to the show, the house shared a slew of images from Dietrich’s collection, filled with DIOR codes like cinched-waist jackets and architectural gowns reminiscent of the New Look. Having been a client of Dior’s, Dietrich’s rebellious spirit drew Chiuri’s attention. This collection felt like walking into Dietrich’s world; a wardrobe dreamed up had she been around in 2024.
Down the runway came a seamless merging of Paris and New York—two cities that are both epicentres of fashion and creativity in their own right. Cropped waistcoats with shirts, ties, and tweed looked right up Dietrich’s alley, along with menswear-inspired silhouettes refreshed with flattering cinched waists. The Aesthetics of the 1930s were celebrated and pushed forward in paperboy caps, sheer tea dresses, and form-fitting skirt suits.
Fabrics such as hammered satin, crushed velvet and crepe are reinterpreted in a contemporary spirit. Some lace-encrusted slip dresses, often revealed beneath large, lined coats, are made from quilted nylon featuring the iconic cannage motif. Americanisms were rife in varsity jackets, sportswear jerseys, a U.S. flag print, cuffed denim to reveal the Dior monogram, sporty anoraks and a sketch-like motif of the New York City skyline.
Scroll on for some standout runway looks or watch the Dior Pre-Fall 2024 show below.
This story first appeared on GRAZIA International.