Gold, Silver And Bronze: In An Olympic Year, Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri Champions The Female Athletes Of Ancient Greece

If just one of the 61 looks Dior sent down its Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2024/25 runway could best depict the manifesto Maria Grazia Chiuri had for the season, it’s look two. Inspired by Ancient Greece, the birthplace of the Olympic Games, Ms. Chiuri cast her couture eye over sportwear with a long, languid, silk goddess gown making its way down the runway. Expertly draped across one shoulder, it was cinched in at the waist with a hard brown leather belt, and unveiled a racer-cut, metallic tank top trimmed in satin.

Indeed, the largely gold, silver and bronze-hued collection drew the gaze of its viewers toward the shoulders or the backs of the bodies, as though to accentuate the power of the women who fought to be taken seriously as athletes—a notion that didn’t exist until 1928. It was around this time as well that jersey fabric was introduced to better accommodate the movements of athletes. While it doesn’t usually belong in the couture world, Ms. Chiuri deftly worked it into a metal mesh in gold, silver and white. Take special note of the sports jersey adorned with gold leaves.

When gowns were not draped across the shoulder—or as loose cowls or bateaus or nipped in as halters—necklines were kept simple with pleats secured down by a single stitch and fell, rather perfectly so, over the body and not around it.

“In ancient Greece, sport and athleticism were integral to one’s education,” Christiana Mitsopoulou, archaeologist and curator of the L’Olympisme exhibition at Musée du Louvre relayed via Dior’s social channels pre-show. “Girls were also encouraged to engage in physical activities…reflecting the belief that women, too, could develop high-level athletic skills.

“[Back then] the athletic attire for women was a draped garment that fell above the knee, leaving one shoulder free,” she continued. “Female athletes—especially runners—were often depicted wearing such attire which was secured in place by a simple string.”

Elsewhere, embellished rompers, capes and suiting took to the runway, all soundtracked to a female counting down numbers, as though she were counting reps. Big, bright mosaic artworks which featured ancient female sporting figures filled the auditorium, a way of representing those who have overcome prejudice and obstacles to ensure a level playing field in sports contests. These tiled works were inspired by, and created in the memory of, New York-born painter and activist Faith Ringgold who sadly passed away in April of this year. She was 93.

A slinky halter gown, as shiny and as golden as a medal on the top podium, closed the outing at Paris’ Musée Rodin, a hop, skip and a jump away from the Esplanade des Invalides where seating is already being erected for the Olympic and Paralympic Games next month.

Yes, if the Olympics are about building a body and couture is built on the body, Ms. Chiuri deserves a gold medal for marrying the two.

See highlights from Dior’s Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2024/25 runway and watch the full show below.

This story first appeared on GRAZIA International.