Burberry has unveiled its Spring 2025 offering, the sixth collection under the creative direction of Daniel Lee. And what else should the British designer be inspired by other than the weather? Or, more specifically, the weather’s characteristic uncertainty.
With a knack for creating a trans-seasonal appeal that is both practical and chic, Lee’s plans for Burberry feel rooted in a deep appreciation for the house’s longstanding codes. But as he’s proven before, the creative director is no stranger to taking archival signatures and distilling them into something entirely fresh and exciting.
This season, the vision is clear. From the very first few looks, silhouettes are modern and sophisticated—classics with a twist. As he explained, the idea was to design clothes for those days when the weather was indecipherable. With so much going on with the planet, this sentiment seems more relevant than ever, but he’s not just selling a solution. This is luxury, after all, and more than practicality is required to drive the kind of interest that’ll see a successful tenure unfold.
Speaking of years, a theme with this collection is a sense of timelessness, with ’90s minimalism, Y2K-style details like zips and fitted outerwear and even ’70s influences showing up throughout in flared trousers, shirt dresses and A-line skirts. Looking back on classics that he knows well, Lee even introduced a check georgette blouse, which he described as his take on the pussy-bow blouse his mother would wear. Nostalgia as inspiration rather than recreation is a refreshing feat these days, and lends well to an intergenerational allure that Burberry has always managed to sustain.
The colour palette was just as expansive, leaning more towards intriguing neutrals over the bright pops we’ve seen in his past work, but statements were still present in the form of textural feasts and sculptural accessories. Patchwork, bouclé, laser-cut suede, velvet and shearling are boldly styled with cotton, denim and wool. The Knight bag, a highlight from the accessories, featured leather shields that form external layers, a subtle yet distinctive nod to the house’s heritage logo.
It’s these little details that reflect Lee’s precise and intelligent approach to craftsmanship and innovation in a market that is as uncertain as the weather he creates for. Beyond generating fleeting hype or upheaving a brand, he uses this sense of what people want and fuses this with what we need. Sure, the world’s turbulence could be steering us to dress for some dopamine, but Lee is making sure endearing us to practicality.
This story first appeared on GRAZIA International.