New York – Fashion week is all about inclusivity and we’re all here for it. While most big brands like Michael Kors , Tory Burch , Carolina Herrera and more focus on garments, a handful of designers decided on heading left – focusing on the unconventional side of fashion. Here are four brands that decided that eccentricity is the key:
AREA
AREA presented its Spring Summer 2023 Collection, which explored the ubiquitous symbolism of fruits and of course, beauty.
Area also presented a 20-piece capsule collection in collaboration with Italian women’s footwear brand Sergio Rossi. The line includes sandals, gladiators, pumps and slingbacks in signature Area details such as feathers, crystals and bows.
There were fruit flies that were turned into couture jewelry with some were placed on models’ lips and some were used as embellishments on a sculptural black wool silk tuxedo. So what’s with all the big fruit themes?
The bananas in the collection are positioned into a plunging halter top and cut-out miniskirt in our signature embroidery. We started thinking of a melon sliced in quarters, and how we could blow those proportions up into sculptural couture pieces like a black double-duchesse and rose paillette flesh embroidery or a dramatic black constructed hood tuxedo, both finished with golden metal seeds.” – from Area
Fruits appear in an array of myths around the world. Fresh fruits are meant to symbolize life and new beginnings while sugared ones are meant to sweeten ones upcoming year. A decaying fruit characterizes the inevitable mortality of our presence.
Rodarte
Rodarte introduced a dark, gothic glamour to New York Fashion Week with a jaw-dropping show that seemingly transported the audience to an ethereal journey back to Dunnottar Castle.
Butterfly satin, laces, and ribbons weaved their way through some of the most prominent looks of the night. Morticia Addams would most definitely vibe with the vampy black velvet gowns, fitted with sweeping bell sleeves and seductive and plunging necklines. Wednesday Addams, on the other hand, would much prefer the prim black satin dresses trimmed with white lace. A handful of models wore capes too. The forest-themed show also had models sporting silver fairy ears, crowns, and headpieces to add to the immersive storytelling.
The most eye-catching looks of the night were arguably donned by four models draped in colorful gowns that screamed, iridescence. A weighted and structured golden tinsel dress that trailed about 20 feet behind its model closed out the folkloric show.
Collina Strada
The collection titled “Please Don’t Eat My Friends,” was intended to represent the latest designs from Collina Strada.
Hillary Taymour, the creative director for Collina Strada had previously dabbled in animorphism- in which models strutted down the runway in realistic animal prosthetics. When models first appeared on the runway, they were encouraged to ditch the traditional strut and adopt their chosen animals’ mannerisms
The mother of Collina’s art director, Kathleen Engman sported a sequin bed jacket over a corset, paw print skirt, and lizard spikes on her head. One model appeared with a plaid green trench coat, white sneakers along with a full head prosthetic representing a lizard
Mrs. Taymour herself closed the show by donning elf-like-ear prosthetics and a tee fronting the image of an animal.
On top of all this, they have partnered with the OR Foundation in Ghana to help them re-use their materials.
Dion Lee
Dion Lee showcased his Fall/Winter collections by “shedding a second skin”.
Lee further mentioned that the theme of the show was based on a snake regenerating its skin and constantly evolving. Shedding was a hallmark design throughout the collection.
Base-layer silhouettes were battered, mimicking the process of ecdysis. Hosiery was hand distressed and so was denim. Binding ball chains were draped over silk georgette dresses with a mixed-gauge mesh that aimed to accentuate the human form. The peeling rubber was essentially the shedding process.
Translucent puffer jackets offered a glimpse of layers beneath. Opaque puffers were styled with low-waisted pants offering subtle contrast. The layering aspect of “shedding” played an important role in outerwear.
Lee concluded the collection’s debut with a fête featuring a performance from Azalea Banks.
