Kuala Lumpur looks different from up here. The dimming sky, smeared in saturating blue as the sun dips below the city skyline, beckons the day’s end. The world beyond these floor-to-ceiling glass windows unfolds like a miniature diorama. The people below, like a colony of ants, swarm the streets after a day of hard work, retreating to their mounded nests. From this vantage point, within the softly lit Nadodi, the chaos of the city is muted.
Gentle melodies envelop the segmented space, inspiring a sense of serenity. A fine dining destination that doesn’t need to shout for attention, I remember thinking. There is no over-the-top décor, only the artefacts that evoke the origins of its offerings. There is no gimmicky menu, only the unique yet faithful take on South Indian and Sri Lankan cuisine. Its latest degustation menu, Nomadic Trails, is a mirror image of that quiet luxury vision.
The 10-course bill of fare, as its name suggests, centres its narrative on the nomads, specifically those who had shaped the food traditions of the Indian subcontinent. Each dish is a snapshot of the region’s past as it tells a story of ingredients crossing borders. But contemporary twists come in tandem, appealing to the modern epicureans. Here, heritage is interspersed with modern techniques, the classics reimagined through a contemporary lens.
“It is a tribute to the journeys and stories that shaped our culinary heritage,” says Chef Yavhin Siriwardhana. “With Nomadic Trails, we aim to connect diners with the past, invoking the spirit of the nomads and the blending of traditions passed down through generations,” he adds. The menu, in essence, is a portrait of perseverance—not unlike the scenery outside that brims with hopes and ambitions—and the chef’s intention is omnipresent in every bite.
They say that the first impression is the last impression and Nadodi seems to agree. Nomadic Trails opens with Welcome Trio: a jovial mash green pea tucked within the flat rice-coated paal katti, a complex beetroot curry in a style of tart, and the Chettinad spice that accompanies the chilli oil-drizzled Boston lobster of uttapam. Taking it further is the aerated paniyaram, paired with foie gras, chettinad spices,
and apricot oorga in what’s cheekily called Not a Bun!
A similar sunburst of flavours follows Mango Muse. Hitting the right note between sweet and savoury, this vibrant dish matches the tender Aomori scallops with the zing of young mango. What comes next is the antidote to the former’s vibrancy. Grains Will Rule the World offers a rustic comfort with the slightly dense raagi bread, irresistible when slathered with the creamy, cultured butter, or the fiery maasi
sambol for those who wish to go full throttle.
Picking things back up with its subtly spiced flavour profile is God’s Own Country’s flaky tiger grouper, served with a rich fish head mappas, the burnt butter giving it a velvety body. The journey continues with Spring Leaves whose tribute to the underused chilli leaf makes way for a flavourful thovaiyal. Its mild heat elevates the tender, perfectly roasted spring chicken, allowing gourmands to revel in the complexity of the dish from the very first bite.
Nomadic Trails has something for everyone. Red meat lovers, for instance, would enjoy Hoggets & Merkels. The exquisite lamb saddle is full of depth and it is balanced by the earthy morels and black lentils. It is a fitting prelude to the grand unveiling of Nomad’s Globe. Putting forward the kind
of familiarity that is arguably absent thus far, this Nadodi signature extends a consoling hug, in the form of fragrant and light white biryani, to those who need it.
An epilogue to an enigmatic menu, a dessert duo has been carefully crafted to refresh the palate. Sour Leaves does a commendable job at putting a bow on the Nomadic Trails with the roselle ice cream, countered by the icy crunch of the roselle granita. Kithul, on the other hand, is a textural delight as it juxtaposes creamy coconut custard with crunchy puffed rice. The richness of the cashew butter and spiced rum treacle tie the dish together in a decadent finish.
The Nomadic Trails menu is available for dinner service at Nadodi, located on Level 7A of the Four Seasons Hotel, Kuala Lumpur. To reserve your table, visit Nadodi or call the restaurant directly.
READ MORE
Get Your Fix of Authentic Sri Lankan at Cafe Colombo in TRX
The Great GRAZIA Guide: Must-Try Menus and Buffets in KL and PJ to Satisfy Your Christmas Cravings