Picking a place to have a steak is always a gamble—you’ll never know if you’ll get a place that knows what they’re doing, but after my review at Maillard Grill, I’m happy to say we have a winner here. Upon entering their restaurant in Republik Damansara Heights, the proof is in the pudding: from the chalkboard of available cuts of steak to the imposing cast-iron, charcoal-grill-only Mibrasa oven that executive chef Meg Lee uses to cook the steak (and create that maillard reaction—we saw what they did there).
While Lee was not part of the pioneering team that opened the restaurant in 2022, she has certainly elevated the restaurant from good to great—particularly with her method of ageing steaks, something that sets Maillard Grill apart from other steakhouses in KL. The restaurant also prides itself in sourcing local ingredients from Sabah, Ipoh, and Cameron Highlands—even the charcoal used is primarily from rambutan wood, which has been used for generations in traditional cooking and medicine. Rambutan wood imparts subtle notes of sweetness, according to Maillard Grill, which complements the heavy flavours of red meat. Below, I suss out the must-order dishes at the restaurant and why I recommend it.
Caesar
Who goes to a grill restaurant and orders a salad? I did. Don’t knock it till you try it, but the Caesar salad at Maillard Grill is actually one of the restaurant’s most popular orders. Caesar salads are one of the most butchered plates out there, but Maillard Grill does right by it with the anchovie vinaigrette, a crucial step that plenty of restaurants in KL miss. The salty-umami flavour of the anchovies against the crisp romaine lettuce and shavings of pecorino romano cheese alongside bits of duck bacon genuinely makes this an easygoing salad to love.
Beef Tartare
It’s a cardinal rule that beef tartare should be finely chopped and never minced, so run for the hills if yours turns up in the latter form. The reason for this is that mincing the beef, especially through a grinder, exposes a larger surface area of the meat to harmful bacteria. At Maillard Grill, you can stay firmly in your seat as they serve you 90g of finely chopped meat, with a soft cured free-range egg yolk nestled in a well of the meat. Mix that all up with the pickled purple radish, toasted pumpkin seeds, and mustard, and you’ll have yourself a delectable appetiser. Scoop it up with a potato chip and enjoy the medley of flavours and textures in your mouth—the chopped meat has a light flavour, accentuated by the accoutrements. It makes for a great appetiser that won’t compromise on your capacity before the real mains come out.
Coral Grass Aged Ribeye/Sirloin
If you can only choose one type of steak to order at Maillard Grill, this is my recommendation to you. The coral grass that’s used to age the steak comes from Sabah, something that Chef Meg Lee introduced when she came onboard. The idea came about when the team wanted to use a local element in the dry ageing process—a trip to Sabah inspired Lee, and she went with Sabah coral grass, which is apparently known for its rich umami property. Cuts of meat are wrapped in the coral grass for 21 days, infusing its unique flavour into the meat during the ageing process. Coupled with the Mibrasa oven, the char and deep flavour of the steak is quite distinct; think notes of the salty sea coupled with the rich, meaty flavour of the sirloin.
Beef Wellington
Most places will turn to a certain restaurant where the celebrity chef is famous for his Beef Wellingtons, but that shouldn’t deter you from seeking out others. Maillard Grill is another restaurant in town that does a pretty mean Beef Wellington. Rather than a loaf, their version is round and shaped like a massive meat dumpling. It’s served on a platter, cut, and the wagyu tenderloin is a glorious medium rare doneness, ensconced in flavourful duxelles. Served alongside a heap of arugula and truffle au jus sauce, this main dish will require a generous portion of your appetite.
Spring Chicken
Not everyone loves beef or can eat beef due to reasons. For that person in your party, get them to order the Spring Chicken. The air-cured chicken is also cooked in the Mibrasa oven, showing off crisp skin with juicy, tender meat on the inside.
Make a reservation for Maillard Grill here.
Address: G05, Ground Floor, Republik, Jalan Medan Setia 1, Bukit Damansara, 50490 Kuala Lumpur
Opening Hours: 6PM–11.30PM, Tuesdays to Sundays. Closed on Mondays.