By now, The RuMa Hotel and Residences can no longer be considered a hidden gem. In fact, the thoughtfully designed and neatly coiffed establishment is known for being a sanctuary tucked along Jalan Kia Peng, a stone’s throw away from the Petronas Twin Towers.
To mention The RuMa without highlighting its restaurant ATAS would be a great injustice. Celebrating its fifth anniversary last year, the restaurant turned a new culinary chapter as it shrugged off its modern Malaysian identity. The restaurant’s menu is now fuelled by classic European dishes such as French onion soup, Cioppino stew, and Dauphinoise apple tart. The team is now spearheaded by Chef Suhalmi Tasir, one of the hotel’s pioneering team members.
Upon reading the menu, you’ll spot dishes that may be a mouthful to pronounce, followed by mentions of locally and sustainably sourced ingredients from independent farms. Sure, the combination of unfamiliar dishes and a new chef could be intimidating (but exciting) but the bread served before the meal was a reassuring pass. Lightly glazed with chicken fat, the sourdough is best savoured with a dollop of maple wood butter sprinkled with sea salt—hitting the road on a flavourful note.
The appetisers, meanwhile, are grounded in serious European cooking, including classic French hors d’oeuvres that food aficionados are familiar with. Prepped using fresh prawns from Pulau Ketam, the crispy Prawn Croquette is stacked above the french toast, while the Tuna a la ATAS is served with a smattering of citrus dressing to whet the palate. Hailing from the Mediterranean island is the Asparagus Parmigiana. Served hot, the asparagus tucked beneath the aubergine tomato is drizzled with rich scamorza, a perfect option for vegetarians.
The real exhalation comes when the mains are served. Stealing the spotlight is the generous slab of Wagyu Beef Brisket piled between charred kailan and the velvety pomme purée, in spades. The herculean process of making—seven days of brining, followed by a two-day dry rub, and a full day of slow cooking, is reflected in the brisket’s tender texture. It’s a hearty comfort dish, added with a warm undertone with anise jus spooned over. Nevertheless, the one that got me sinking my teeth into is the Roasted Duck Breast. Accoutred in the pomegranate gastrique, each crispy-skinned slice is a burst of flavour—whether you decide to eat the meat on itself or with a spoonful of wild rice mixed with almonds.
Leave room for dessert. Made with buah keluak, the Spiced Delight is a good selection for those who prefer to end their meals on a lighter note, even though keluak and “light” are not exactly a combination that we are used to. Texture-wise, chocolate espumes are added for a hint of “lightness”, quite literally. Yoghurt, lemon meringue and lemon cremeux too, balance off the fruit’s notorious acquired taste that has driven many away. On that page, one that initially drove me away is the Sizzling Brownie, especially with its saccharine smell. Drizzled with salted caramel, the brownie comes with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Though it sounds and smells sweet, it tastes surprisingly well worth the whirl, so much so that I wouldn’t mind going back for it.
While the two-course set lunch is priced at RM88 nett, the three-course is available at RM105 nett. For dinner, the tasting menu comes in RM328 nett per person, with supplementary items available at a la carte prices.
Make a reservation for ATAS here.
Address: 7, Jalan Kia Peng, Kuala Lumpur, 50450 Kuala Lumpur, Wilayah Persekutuan Kuala Lumpur
Opening Hours: 12 PM–2:30 PM, 6 PM-10:30 PM Tuesdays to Sundays. Closed on Mondays.
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