My intro to Indonesia couldn’t be more ideal than with a three-night stay at the COMO Shambhala Estate, an award-winning Wellness Resort nestled in nature just outside Ubud, Bali.
I had just completed a gruelling five-day shoot schedule: call times were 4 am to 8 pm, with “reset” for the next day still ahead of me. Each day presented new challenges from the no-show hair artists to a model showing up with unbraided hair [she didn’t get the brief?]. My assistant had a flat tire with all the garments conveniently in his car, and on top of all of this, the weather was super unpredictable. You know, the usual shenanigans that can happen on photo shoots. The only thing keeping me going was the countdown, the seconds before boarding that direct flight to Bali and better still, getting to experience my first wellness retreat.
I’ve dreamt of staying at the COMO Shambhala Estate for several years since it opened in 2005. Colleagues had raved about their stay and I was so close to shooting there in 2019, but then the pandemic hit. But it was worth the wait. I was about to have my own personal wellness transformation without having to hustle and plan fashion shoots. (Not that the thought hadn’t crossed my mind given how amazing it would be to shoot on the expansive 9.3-hectare property, with jungled-covered riverbanks, natural springs, and waterfalls.) Then there’s the architecture of the Estate and Villas: Materials keep within the Balinese tradition of using local stone, wood, and alang-alang roofing. There’s a very uncomplicated approach to the design so guests can keep their minds clear of all thoughts, except for the positive ones.
STAY:
I adored my villa to the point I could have easily never left my suite. Between the infinity pool and my king-sized bed, I had found my spot. The bedposts are draped in a canopy of muslin, ideal for keeping mosquitoes out but also for a sense of comfort and peacefulness, deftly complimenting the batik-style bed linen and the gentle scent of amber. My suite was designed in warm tones of traditional Balinese hand-carved teak wood furniture and artifacts.
“Was I living in a different time period? Perhaps I was the main character in the Marguerite Duras novel The Lover, the one set in Indochina during the colonial period. I decided on my maxi white linen dress and fedora to match the setting.”
With over 30 rooms, suites, and villas, there are five uniquely themed residences designed by the architect Cheong Yew Kuan including Tirta-Ening (‘Clear Water’), Tejasuara (‘Sound of Fire’), Wanakasa (‘Forest in the Mist’), and Uma Bona (‘House of the Earth son’). I loved relaxing in the Bayugita [Sanskrit for “Windsong”] and was so excited to be surrounded by nature. My infinity pool looked out to rice fields and even as it started to rain slightly, the visceral tropical humid air could not have been more welcomed.
EAT:
The expansive estate means it’s possible you might not see another guest during the course of the day. My reclusive nature would normally be delighted by this, but I was pleased to see my personal assistant Karti pick me up in a buggy to take me to the main area for dinner. Here I was able to explore the delights of the renowned cuisine of the two restaurants Glow and Kudus House. I particularly loved Kudus House, a former 150-year-old Javanese residence. Sunsets are a standout especially if you are lucky enough to secure the corner table overlooking the tropical vista below.
The menu showcases diverse Indonesian flavours and spices. Jukut Rambanan, a delicious fragrant Balinese green vegetable and coconut soup, instantly put me in reset mode. Pepes Ikan, marinated kingfish in banana leaf, and the Karedok salad of palm heart and jicama were also delicious. I’ve had it drilled into me to never eat anything fresh that you can’t peel, so it was a relief to hear that the unique ingredients are sourced mostly from the restaurant’s onsite organic vegetable gardens.
Kudos House also serves breakfast, secretly my favourite meal of the day especially when you start with medicinal shots of golden jamu, turmeric, and tamarind. I adore a seasonal tropical fruit platter, but the young coconut and flax seed crepes filled with apple, nut, maple, and coconut cream were a whole new league.
The Como Shambhala prides itself on its extensive Juice and smoothie menu. If fasting and nourishing is your objective, there are so many juices and blends to choose from: Blood Builder (beetroot, carrot, apple, ginger, turmeric), Lean and Clean Greens (cucumber, apple, spinach, fennel, and more), or Muscle Mylk (banana, coconut, almond milk, cacao, dates, and flaxseed). All practically a meal in themselves.
WELLBEING:
I hadn’t set any particular goals for my stay although I was yearning to decompress, relax and explore what Como Shambhala had to offer. While many conventional destination spas offer pampering, COMO Shambhala provides a 360-degree experience tailored to each individual’s needs. Whether you’re needing to mend mind, body, or spirit, there’s an optional comprehensive program to suit you based around one of four plans: Ayurvedic, Be Active, Bespoke, or Cleanse.
The initial questionnaire was a little confronting. It asked for details about my health, dietaries, and sleeping habits which were then analysed by a wellness expert. After my one-to-one meeting, I learnt it is indeed better to drink room temperature water, avoid many of my favourite food groups including gluten [bread, pasta], and alcohol [no surprise], and I was advised to make time to meditate and treat myself to regular massages.
Speaking of massages, when it came to treatments, I opted for the Taksu massage. An invigorating massage, it was somewhat like a cross between a deep tissue and a Thai massage which is ideal for me as I like a strong massage.
“I could feel the tension melt away, and afterwards a lightness and openness washed over me; a feeling similar to diving into the ocean, and then coming up for air with a huge smile on your face.”
I like that my Wellness consultant kindly followed up with a few personal suggestions, like Chinese herbs, to help with my mental clarity, energy, and sleep. They also suggested some great recipes for plant-based dishes as I had expressed that I was looking to cut back on eating meat.
There are over 13 treatment rooms, an outdoor hydrotherapy pool, yoga, pilates, steam, and sauna room, an indoor equipment gym, and an outdoor jungle gym with a climbing wall. Being a yogi, I was pleased to experience our practice in an open-air yoga pavilion, with the sound of rustling trees only adding to the pace of our chants.
We took an active nature walk to the water garden (which was a little more vertical than I had expected!) but the considered pavement stones meant there was little chance of slippage. I later found out there are over 2200 stone steps cut into the hillside. You are rewarded with a swim and healing ritual in the ancient spring water pools, called The Source. While The Source is on estate grounds, the sacred water belongs to the Balinese people and special paths have been kept clear for Hindu villagers to collect water for holy rituals which we experienced as well with an invited priest.
After the ceremony, and shaded by the tropical trees and a view of the waterfall, we were treated to a very relaxing Kendara picnic lunch, a delicious feast of fresh salads, wraps, and dips served on woven baskets. I saw red dragonflies skimming the water beneath us. It was here that I honestly start to feel nourished from the inside out.
For those looking for a more cultural adventure, there’s the option of walks or bike rides to nearby paddy fields, villages, and temples. For me, my current calm state of mind meant I was very content staying in this sprawling green oasis. Surely three days could be extended to more? Here’s hoping my blissful imprint would follow me home. Otherwise, there’s always the option to come back to the COMO Shambhala.
This story first appeared in GRAZIA International.