At the Jardin des Tuileries, a model swings before a crowd before vanishing into thin air—her presence replaced by the commanding voice of a narrator. “Once upon a time,” he began, kicking off a 25-minute, five-act odyssey that explored Dior’s storied history.
Traditionally honing in on inspirational female figures throughout history, this season saw Maria Grazia Chiuri look to Orlando, Virginia Woolf’s radical, gender-defying novel, for Fall/Winter 2025. The result was a collection that celebrated the transformative power of clothing, as nostalgically demonstrated through nods to the House’s many chapters.
The collection served as a fitting homage to Woolf’s time-travelling story, where clothing shifts transcend centuries and genders. The infinitely malleable white shirt that the House has consistently reimagined became the collection’s opening statement, a nod to both the book’s themes and the vision of former Dior creative director Gianfranco Ferré. But what followed was an even richer tapestry of references: crinolines and breeches pulled from history, frock coats with detachable ruffles, and delicate lace pieces that toed the line between delicate lingerie and power dressing.
Transparency also played a key role, with sheer blouses and tulle overlays softened by full-coverage underpinnings—a now-signature Chiuri touch that grounds diaphanous fabrics. The sharp tailoring of cropped jackets and utilitarian outerwear contrasted beautifully with the hyper-feminine crinolines that made their grand appearance in the show’s final act. Black velvet ribbons, baroque pearls, and exquisite ermine-style trims—direct echoes of John Galliano’s Fall 2004 Haute Couture—offered an homage to an era of Dior that is constantly referenced decades later.
But this was no simple retrospective. The collection’s play on proportions, particularly the cantilevered hiplines, pulled inspiration from Monsieur Dior’s iconic La Cigale dress from 1952 while still feeling distinctly modern. And for those looking closely, there were Easter eggs aplenty: from the frilled white blouses reminiscent of Ferré’s tenure to the reappearance of J’Adore Dior T-shirts that once defined Galliano’s reign.
Beyond the garments themselves, the show’s set-up further emphasised its timeless message. As the five acts unfolded, craters and rocks dotted the stage, while a prehistoric bird soared overhead—perhaps a reflection of Orlando’s themes of metamorphosis and the endurance of fashion throughout time.
Speaking of time, the looming question of Chiuri’s future at Dior is in the air at Paris Fashion Week, particularly with a strong collection replete with nostalgia and references to the past. With creative leadership reshuffles dominating industry conversations, whispers of her potential departure have only grown louder. But if this collection was her final bow, it was a powerful one—proof that, after nine years, her ability to weave history, literature, and feminism into Dior’s DNA has left an indelible mark.
This story first appeared in GRAZIA International.
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