Ever spent hours playing around with your makeup, labouring over shadow choices, lip combos, and wing shapes only to feel like nothing looks right? Well, according to a theory circulating on TikTok, there might be a simple explanation.
Now, we accept as much as the next person that TikTok is a bottomless chasm of unsolicited beauty advice, where everyone and their dog is shilling the latest “game-changing” product or hack. It’s too easy to get lost in the algorithm’s infiniteness, but while we’d agree that most of it should be met with suspicion and eye-rolls, ‘Facial Contrast Theory’ may have some substance. Particularly for those of us who still haven’t quite managed to nail makeup and lack the patience to wade through all the sponcon.
Popularised by French makeup artist Aliénor Dervanian, the concept of facial contrast is nothing new, but its utility in makeup application has garnered millions of views, saturating our FYPs with promises of meeting your full aesthetic potential and ending our beauty paralysis.
So, what’s it all about? Read on for our breakdown.
What is Facial Contrast Theory?
Facial Contrast Theory has been mostly covered by Dervanian, who has gripped users with thorough explanations and tips on finding one’s most suitable makeup according to their colouring.
As she says, it’s less of a ‘trend’ and more about understanding how our eyes naturally perceive colour balances and working with that to achieve harmonious looks.
Though it sounds complicated, all it essentially involves is examining the degree of contrast between your skin tone, hair colour, eyes and any other facial features to figure out which of three categories of contrast you fall into: low, medium, or high. Those whose skin tone and eye colour all fall into a similar saturation sit at the lower end of the spectrum, while those with a starker difference will land higher up.
For example, if you have “low contrast”, your features are all within a similar tone or lightness. Think Taylor Swift or Beyoncé. On the other end, being “high contrast” means there is a significant difference in tone between your features, so you might have dark hair but fair skin and lighter eyes. Celebrities like Megan Fox and Selena Gomez (depending on her hair colour era) are good examples of this. While it can seem more vague, “medium contrast” means you sit somewhere in the middle—duh. A wide range of colours can make this up, but examples have included Emma Watson and Zendaya.
The main way this theory works is that it looks at how the colour value of our features draws the eye. As Dervanian notes, it’s about making sure people see the face first and not the makeup.
If you’re still not quite sure where you might sit, she has actually created a TikTok filter that helps to discern your colouring.
Best makeup for low contrast faces
When facial contrast is low, the eye tends to take in the face as a whole rather than being directed to one particular feature. According to Dervanian, this means the low contrast girlies can do ‘no makeup makeup’ like no others because their features are already quite soft and harmonious. A bit of blush and highlighter will go a long way to flatter the features, while heavy or bold tones can overpower them.
The French makeup pro also suggests adding some faux freckles to maximise the ‘natural’ effect.
Best makeup for medium contrast faces
A good lipstick with the right intensity is the key to getting the most out of a makeup look for medium contrast faces. Opt for shades deeper than your natural lip tone, as these will flatter more than nudes. Dervanian uses examples of medium-deep berry hues that can also be used for blush to keep things monochromatic.
For those who fall into medium contrast but have darker eyes, a soft, brown smoky eye can also work wonders for balance, as long as the lips aren’t neglected.
Since Dervanian identifies as medium contrast, you’ll find plenty of helpful tutorials on her page.
Best makeup for high contrast faces
When there’s a stark difference between skin tone and hair colour, eyes are naturally pulled towards the light, meaning your features are out of focus, so makeup can be used to intensify eyes, brows and lips so that they remain a focus.
Higher contrasts can get away with some truly bold looks, but because features can run a touch harsh, base coverage can be less important, and Dervanian recommends using products that soften eyes and lips. This doesn’t just mean light makeup, though. Instead, it can be an intense smokey eye that uses warmer tones or a rich and intense lip colour—she particularly loves deep reds—that reshift attention to these parts of the face.
This story first appeared on GRAZIA International.
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