The Exchange TRX may be bustling with activity, but it’s always nice to know that there are quiet corners that you can enter to recharge and refuel—and Union Bistrot is one such place. Located on Level 1 of the shopping mall and carefully tucked inside an enclosure of plants, the restaurant-cafe is all at once comfortable yet posh.
Inside, a quick look at the menu showcases diversity: there will be something for everyone. Malaysian flavours are incorporated into European-centric dishes (think Rojak salads, a jackfruit mille fueille, and a cendol that looks like a parfait), but there are also typically European offerings like fish pies and honey-glazed duck breast. Coffee enthusiasts will appreciate the Coffee Flight that Union Bistrot offers, featuring Malaysian Liberica beans. But if you’re looking to imbibe, there is also a selection of cocktails created by their in-house bartender.
With so much to offer, we sat down with Chef Neon Chin from Union Bistrot to find out more about this young chef and his work at the restaurant-cafe.
What inspired your passion for cooking, and how has it evolved over the years?
My mother, without a doubt. She was the one who made me fall in love with cooking. I used to always stand next to her, watching her cook. One of my fond memories was of her making my favourite “chilled” cheesecake, except it was frozen and not chilled. I always thought that was how it should be, but I later realised it was not. It was then I realised that it was okay to not follow the recipe exactly—”be creative” became my motto in cooking since then.
How do you approach creating a new dish or menu? Where do you draw inspiration from?
I typically draw inspiration from my daily meals. Fusing two or more different types of cuisine into one is kind of my thing, such as blending the idea of fried chicken waffles with nasi lemak. That was how I came up with Union Bistrot’s signature dish, the Wafflemak.
Can you share a memorable culinary experience or moment that significantly influenced your cooking style?
When I was working in Dubai, I would be tasked to work in the sashimi section every Friday. My job was cutting various seafood precisely. On my first day, I was given a big chunk of bluefin tuna with zero instructions. Without a clue on how to properly cut it, I destroyed the fish. I was later lectured by the executive chef. Afterwards, I went online to learn how to cut tuna properly, and I slowly managed to master it. It made me learn that when there is a will, there will be a way.
What do you believe sets apart a truly exceptional meal from an ordinary one?
Texture and the layering of flavours. Texture can be very straightforward forward but layering depth of flavours can be tough. Take marinara sauce, for example. If you’re using just tomato puree, it can be quite plain. However, adding confit cherry tomatoes and sundried tomatoes for punchiness can immediately bring more depth of flavour to the sauce. For me, that’s what sets a spectacular dish apart from an ordinary one.
How do you balance innovation and tradition in your culinary creations at Union Bistrot?
It’s simple in Union Bistrot and it’s very straightforward for the team too. We go with the, “base first, concept next” method. As a rule of thumb, we usually go with local flavours to begin with, followed by the international cooking theme. One good example is our new dish, the Nyonya Curry Ramen. The team agreed with the nyonya curry laksa first, and then we decided to bring the Japanese ramen concept into it.
In your opinion, what are some key skills or qualities aspiring chefs should cultivate to succeed in the culinary industry?
With the basics (teamwork, being able to cope with pressure, time management, and more), those who can survive in the industry for years are typically able to do all those things. However, if you really want to be successful and stand out, there are three things I emphasise on: be passionate, be creative, and be humble.
How do you stay updated with evolving food trends while maintaining your unique culinary identity?
In this era, social media is a good way to keep us updated on the ever-evolving food trends.
Personally, I use Instagram to be updated most of the time. Lots of great chefs have their personal
accounts open to the public and will constantly upload dishes that they created. Of course, dining out is
also one of the more straightforward ways of staying updated.
How unique is Union Bistrot within The Exchange TRX?
Union Bistrot offers very unique dishes that are familiar to the local tastebuds. As a Malaysian, you’ll find
similarities in the food’s flavours, but with a different presentation. As a traveller, tourists will get to taste what Malaysia offers and be immersed in various fusions from all parts of the world.
What is your favourite holiday destination in Asia to relax and recharge?
Kyoto, Japan. It’s laid back, rich in local and fusion food, and preserved with many historical corners
packed with stories.
If you were to name one mentor who has inspired you, who would that be?
Jean-Claude Plihon. He is the executive chef in Grand Hyatt DFW (Dallas Fort Worth) and a mentor who taught me to be who I am mentally. He was always there with encouragement and guidance when I needed it most. He’s a great chef and a mentor without a doubt.
Address: Lot L1.46, Level 1, The Exchange TRX, Persiaran TRX, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia 55188
Opening Hours: 10AM-10PM daily
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