First delving into the—at times, painfully moderate—world of ready-to-wear in 2023, Daniel Roseberry has seamlessly expanded upon the world of Elsa Schiaparelli. As he’s proven through multiple collections now, the creative director once again managed to reimagine the codes of the house’s couture offering without tempering the whimsy and wonder of the brand. For Spring/Summer 2025, Roseberry was inspired to recreate the romance of the past. Titled ‘Future Vintage’, this collection was designed to establish instant heirlooms that will be passed down through generations.
“At the beginning of this collection, we decided we were going to make clothes not just for our clients, but for their daughters and granddaughters,” Roseberry wrote in his shownotes.
Opening the show was Schiaparelli knitwear, a modern reimagining of the brand’s heritage. From featherweight ribs in pearlescent hues to subtle menswear archetypes reworked with hidden stretch corsets, these pieces champion the female form. The show’s knit piques and sporty silhouettes offered a refreshing nod to Elsa Schiaparelli’s original vision of “pour le sport,” with an added emphasis on comfort and elegance.
Elsewhere on the runway, bright and bold Mondrian-esque colours and animal prints permeated the collection, offering an answer to summer statement pieces. The collection also tapped into Schiaparelli’s signature surrealism with tongue-in-cheek accessories that have become synonymous with the brand. The ‘Secret’ bag, featuring its iconic Padlock clasp, returned in an array of shades, while the newest addition, the ‘Hobo’ bag, made a strong debut in zebra jacquard and soft, over-dyed cotton. In both full and mini versions, these playful bags are set to become must-haves.
Shoes, too, were impossible to ignore on the runway, with an exclusive line of flats—an unexpected twist from Schiaparelli, known for their bold heels—that came moulded into anatomical foot shapes in black, silver, beige and aqua-blue ombre.
With an unrelenting love for the surreal, which remains at the heart of Schiaparelli, Roseberry presented a Spring/Summer 2025 collection that exemplifies the magic of clothing and the profound effects of extraordinary design.
“The world may feel chaotic, but here, the mood is celebratory,” he says, “both of what fashion can be, but of how fashion can make you feel.”
This story first appeared on GRAZIA International.
READ MORE
PFW: Face Value At Balmain Spring/Summer 2025
Horoscopes September 30–October 6: The People-Pleasing Needs To Stop
Emily Blunt Reveals Her Daughters Aren’t A Fan Of Her ‘The Devil Wears Prada’ Character