Thread Talk is a series venturing into a designer’s inner workings and thoughts. Today, we have Nelissa Hilman, the designer who started her eponymous brand as a shoe label and later ventured into ready-to-wear.
Nelissa Hilman (NH) may not be the first homegrown shoe label, but her eponymous label was surely the one that got the ball rolling. We once spoke to a local fashion designer who named NH the “footwear for all”, mainly because most local fashion brands that produce clothes but not shoes would, at some point, feature a pair of NH in their lookbook shoots. Minimally designed with promising quality and versatility, every pair from this brand ticks the boxes of footwear that may not stand out on the streets, but are the comfort shoes everyone would fall back on.
As glamorous as it sounds, the fashion business is anything but. When asked what was the hurdle, or rather a lesson learned after a decade in the industry, the designer behind let out a low groan, “Cashflow is king!” she says. Getting her feet wet in garment-making was part of the progression; a silver lining that diverts both the business and Nelissa from distressing times during the global pandemic. The barometer of success might vary, but for us, it lies within Nelissa’s tenacity.
It was a humbling experience talking to Nelissa, who shows great courage in recognising her failings and is eager to learn more—whether through exchanging thoughts with her peers, collaborating with both experienced or up-and-coming young designers or constantly challenging herself. “I’d like to hire people who are way smarter than I am,” the soft-spoken designer concluded.
Ahead, Nelissa shares how the label came about, along with the ups and downs as a designer in the local fashion scene.
Could you tell us a bit about your background? You were in chemical engineering before starting NH; what led to the change?
I had to serve my bond for five years in a GLC (government-linked company) company upon graduation. The thought of venturing into fashion surfaced when I took a break after that, since I had been attending sewing classes on weekends. Later on, I attended a short shoemaking course in Polimoda Florence circa 2010/2011. I came back after my stay in Italy and got a chance to visit the Malaysian Footwear Manufacturer Association (MFMA), where I met shoemakers around the Klang Valley. I ended up interning in a bespoke shoemaking studio while figuring out how to start my shoe label. I never dreamt of owning my namesake fashion or shoe label growing up.
What was the turning point that led you to venture into ready-to-wear?
Frankly, it was a difficult time for us during the pandemic. The casual footwear industry wasn’t as lucky or flexible as other leisurewear or sports footwear labels. We turned 10 in 2022, so we wanted to rejuvenate our brand with a stronger vision of the Nelissa Hilman woman. RTW was part of the plan among others. I was always curious about what it would be like to expand horizontally. It is through learning, failing (a lot) and challenges, that I thrive.
How would you describe NH? Is there any difference between you as Nelissa and Nelissa Hilman as a brand?
I grew alongside the brand, personally and professionally—starting from zero knowledge of shoe production to creating the company, eventually a community, motherhood, and everything in between. Over the years, the pockets of interactions between the people we met, creatives we collaborated with, shoe factories and artisans we studied and worked with—these are the essence of Nelissa Hilman as a brand. I’d like for the brand to be remembered for our shoes, creative energy, and the collaborations we brought to the industry.
As a designer who has been active in the scene for more than a decade now, what is your take on trend-driven fashion?
We’d always ask if this—shoe, clothing, or bag—is something our customers would wear. Unlike fast fashion brands, we produce our collection in small numbers and only reproduce best-selling and crowd-favourite designs. Our test-and-repeat model means that we have very little post-production waste. We order minimum quantities of each item and then only re-order the lines that are selling well. This is to ensure that our shoes are made with intention: loved and used for a long time.
NH is known for being sustainable. How do you ensure the brand adheres to that? Is it challenging?
We have been working with local factories and artisans from the beginning. Our shoes are handcrafted locally to pay homage to the Malaysian shoemaking industry—a community that’s been around for almost a century. We want to ensure that the excellence isn’t undermined.
Unfortunately, Malaysia is not a material-producing country. Hence, the majority of the shoe components and materials are imported from all over Asia; China in particular. Production-wise, we work with certified factories that adhere to quality standards. Our outsoles are produced locally with 10% recycled rubber. Our shoeboxes, courier boxes, and cartons used for logistics are locally produced with 50% recycled paper.
Looking back, what was your biggest challenge?
In our early years, we were overwhelmed by designing, production, marketing, customer service, and growing the team. There were many oversights and failures in managing production timelines and cash flow—growing pains and lessons learned are expensive. Again, the pandemic was a turning point; an opportunity for us to review the business and ask questions we’d put aside, on the trajectory of the brand for the next decade.
In our previous conversation, you mentioned human resources is your weakness. How do you deal with that as a business owner?
I believe the bigger the dream, the more important the team is. I’d hire more people who are way smarter than I am.
Of all the facets of this business, which takes the utmost priority?
Product(ion) has always been of importance aside from design. I believe a shoe that lasts lies within the sole (soul) and everything else revolves around it—from the width (fit) to the heel (height). You may carry your clothes, but your shoes carry you.
What is something that you have always wanted to do with the brand, but currently lack the resources to do so?
Sports-inspired footwear. A collaboration with a sports brand would be a dream.
Any upcoming projects that we can look forward to?
We are looking into making small leather goods and bags that we’ve been prototyping since 2018. Fingers crossed.